Re: [CH] Recipe Request-Ice Cream Part 2
Art Pierce (pierces@cruzio.com)
Wed, 28 Jun 2000 12:36:43 -0700
Chile-Chilly
~~~
Bases for the 3 nationally-distributed super-premiums -
Häagen-Dazs
http://www.haagen-dazs.com/
Ben & Jerry's
http://www.benjerry.com/
Dreyer's Dreamery
http://www.dreyers-dreamery.com/
- have at least 15% butterfat
AND no more than 20% overrun
- 200% overrun = 100% air -
(less than 10% overrun is unscoopable)
http://www.traderjoes.com/tj/products/foodfacts/Ice_Cream_Standards.html
http://www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/icecream.html
You small local commercial boutique ice cream makers
will not go beyond 21% butterfat unless you special order.
This is a richer - 23.5=>31% butterfat (higher butterfat -
better for mouth feel) - ice cream base to which you can
add chiles, chocolate, fruits &/or nuts
and anything else you want to try.
It is from:
A Lover's Tale of Hot Pepper Ice Creams
by J. Mark Brown
in an old Chile Pepper magazine.
Yields at least one quart.
1 part milk (say 1 cup)
(4% butterfat)
3 parts whipping cream (say 3 cups)
(light = 30=>32% butterfat; heavy = 36=>40% butterfat)
Heat, with occasional stirring to 143-160F.
This is easiest done over simmering water.
(144F is the temp. at which proteins begin to denature;
above 160F, proteins "clot.".)
+++Skip this next step if adding fruit.
Sweeten, whisking in until dissolved, with 3/4=>7/8 parts
(say 3/4 => 7/8 cup) sugar.
(Häagen-Dazs, Ben & Jerry's and Dreamery
use anywhere from 1 =>1-1/8 parts sugar.)
Thicken with 1/4 => 2/5 part egg yolks (say ~1/3 cup),
measured then beaten. Stir a tsp or so of the warm mixture
in to the beaten yolks before gradually, and whisking constantly,
adding the beaten yolks into the warmed milk/cream mixture.
Continue barely heating, stirring or whisking constantly,
until the mixture is thick enough to coat the whisk elements
(or the back of a spoon).
Add any other liquefied, non-alcoholic ingredients.
Cool down
I would add a little vanilla extract (say 1 Tbs).
To prevent pulverizing wanted chunks, gradually
stir in the "extra added ingredients"
NO SOONER THAN the last 2 => 4 minutes
before freezing.
ALWAYS TASTE JUST BEFORE FREEZING TO ADJUST THE FLAVORS.
You can figure out how much of which of
the "extra added ingredients" you want to add, e.g.,
Hab, or any chile, fresh and minced (say 1/2 cup or more);
dried and crushed (say 2 Tbs or more)
(plus fruit, optional).
If you're going to add up to 1.5 cups of nuts near the end,
a corresponding extract - almond extract for almonds, etc. -
might be added (say 2 tsp) after the mixture has cooled down.
When adding fruit, you must add sugar
to the fruit 30+ minutes ahead of time and
let the fruit juices dissolve it into a syrup,
always keeping the fruit cold.
How much sugar depends on the original sweetness
of the fruit, and an individual piece of fruit varies.
Here are some starting points:
Bananas - no sugar
Apples 7 parts fruit to 1 part sugar
Mangos, Peaches, Pears, Plums,
Pineapples, Strawberries 4:1
Apricots, Blackberries, Cherries, Papaya 3:1
Raspberries 2:1
If the fruit is the type that oxidizes (pretty much all of them
except citrus & dark-fleshed plums), prevent oxidation by
adding a little extra of equal parts sugar and lemon juice, to taste,
remembering you probably don't want fruit-flavored lemonade ice cream.
+++You use the sweetened fruit INSTEAD OF SUGAR
in last 2 => 4 minutes of stirring for the ice cream.
Bittersweet chocolate:
melted, or cocoa powder, &/or chunks
(say 1 cup of the melted or 2/3 cup cocoa powder &/or 1 cup chunks)
(plus 2 => 8 Tbs liquor &/or liqueur, optional).
"Air is the enemy of chocolate." Also, cocoa butter in chocolate picks up
refrigerator scents - so keep tightly wrapped and double Zip-Lock bagged,
on shelf for short time, in fridge for longer time or in freezer "forever."
[I am not related to the Van Leers in any way. Get friends, neighbors,
co-workers together to buy 24-lb bittersweet &/or 30-lb cocoa powder.]
Van Leer sez: "Store between 65-70 degrees F, at a maximum
of 50% relative humidity and away from foreign odors.
Keep off storeroom floors. Refrigeration is not recommended."
Richard Donnelly sez: "Refrigeration doesn't hurt it if air can't get at it."
Van Leers makes the best bittersweet chocolate and cocoa powder
AND it's not at those exorbitant Valrhona or Callebaut prices:
"The panel’s favorite was Van Leer Bittersweet, a trade brand from
New Jersey sold by mail for only $4 per pound, which, if you exclude
shipping costs, makes it less expensive than the last-placed supermarket chocolate."
Van Leer Chocolate Corp.
110 Hoboken Ave.
Jersey City NJ 07303-2006
4829 Bittersweet Dark Chocolate, Cocoa Content: 64%; MINIMUM ORDER: SIX 4-lb BARS.
4806 VL 120 Cocoa Powder, 22-24% fat, dutch-processed; MINIMUM ORDER: SIX 5-lb bags.
http://www.vanleerchocolate.com/product.htm
http://www.vanleerchocolate.com/cooks1.htm
http://www.vanleerchocolate.com/cooks2.htm
Sales Contact
Don Holmes
Monday - Friday 8:00 am to 4:30 PM EST
1-800-VAN-CHOC
or (909) 621-2763
"Van Leer’s distributor network offers our products to customers who do not meet
the minimum order quantity requirements to purchase directly from Van Leer."
http://www.vanleerchocolate.com/distrib.htm
~~~
More chile ice cream recipes are at:
http://www.pepperfool.com/recipes/desserts.htm
http://recipes.alastra.com/desserts-frozen/default.html