Cherry Ketchup from "On The Side," by Jessica B. Harris (page 190) I love cherries and cannot get enough of them in season. One year I purchased $50 worth before heading off to Martha's Vineyard, where cherries are even more expensive than in New York City. I found that my bumper crop was going bad by the third week and thought I'd better do something; this is what I came up with. If you want a smoother, more ketchup-like consistency, put the mixture through a sieve after cooking. Be careful not to overcook this ketchup; if you do, you'll have a cherry chutney. Remove it when it seems a bit too runny to be a ketchup. You'll need about a pound and a half of cherries for the pulp, but the exact amount will depend on how juicy your cherries are. This ketchup is great with grilled or roasted meats. 1 1/2 pounds bing red cherries, pitted 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 tablespoon jalapeno balsamic vinegar (page 193) 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger Pinch of ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Prepare the cherry pulp by placing the pitted cherries in a food processor and pulsing until they become a thick paste. You want 2 cups of pulp. Combine the pulp, vinegars, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a non-reactive saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for about a half an hour, or until the mixture is almost the thickness of ketchup. Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Makes two 8-ounce jars Jalapeno Balsamic Vinegar from "On The Side," by Jessica B. Harris (page 193) This almost-too-simple-to-be-a-recipe recipe adds flavor to everything it touches. It can spice up a soup or add a bit of zip to a salad dressing. It can even serve as a table condiment all by itself if dressed up in a fancy cruet. 10 jalapeno chillies, cut into 1/2-inch slices, or more to taste 2 cups balsamic vinegar Place the jalapeno slices into a wide mouthed jar and cover with the vinegar. Seal and allow it to sit for 1 week then serve as a table condiment. Pour out a bit of the peppery vinegar on whatever you wish. Those who want more ubite" can add the pickled jalapenos too. Makes 2 cups Piquillo Ketchup from "On The Side," by Jessica B. Harris (page 191) This recipe was sent to me by my friend Matt Rowley, who is a pickling fiend. He's adapted and updated a recipe from Ola Powell's 1918 Successful Canning and Preserving for pimiento ketchup, using the Spanish piquillo pepper. The result is, as he pronounces it, "kick-ass." The peppers are available canned and give a flavor all their own to this ketchup. It's a grand addition to stews and soups, and can even be used as a sandwich spread. 4 pounds (drained weight) roasted Spanish piquillo chillies 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 1/2 pounds (3 1/2 cups minus 2 tablespoons) sugar 1 to 2 tablespoons ground ginger 1 to 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon 3 cups cider vinegar Grind the piquillos in a food processor to a slushy puree still with some pieces no bigger than grains of rice. Pour the puree into a large, non-reactive pot and mix in the salt, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, and vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until it reaches a ketchup like consistency, about 45 minutes. Pour the ketchup into sterilized jars, seal, cool, and refrigerate, or seal and process (see page 103). Makes about 3 pints* * "A Note about Yields" (from page 137): Yields will vary with time of year and fruit used as these may be more or less liquid. Fill each container to the brim and sal. If you get a big more, put the extra in your refrigerator for immediate use. Pineapple-Rum Mustard from "On The Side," by Jessica B. Harris (page 188) This hot, Caribbean-inspired mustard is based on the Champagne mustards of France. I came up with it for a show that I was doing with Sara Moulton on the Food Network in 1999. 2 tablespoons white mustard seeds 1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds 1 1/2 tablespoons dry mustard powder 1/4 cup fresh pineapple, finely minced 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Small pinch dried Scotch Bonnet chillies, or to taste 2 teaspoons Demerara sugar (see Note) 6 tablespoons or more dark rum (the amount will vary depending on the thickness desired) Salt, to taste Grind the mustard seeds in a mortar and pestle or spice mill. Place the ground mustard seeds in a bowl with enough water to moisten and allow them to sit for 10 minutes. Return the soaked seeds to the mortar or place in the bowl of a food processor with the mustard powder, pineapple, thyme, chillies, sugar, rum, and salt to taste. Pound or process until the desired consistency is reached. Pour off any excess liquid, then spoon the mustard into a small jar. Cover tightly and refrigerate. The mustard should sit for at least 2 weeks before use. NOTE: Demerara sugar is a dry, coarse-textured raw sugar from Guyana. You can find it in specialty markets or online. Makes about 1/2 cup