[CH] Re: Miracle Gro and other types of fertilizers; pots vs. soil
Nels Peterson (npkp4jp@polarcomm.com)
Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:23:01 -0600
I wasn't refering to the chemical composition - but rather that Miracle Gro
doesn't contain any "special" ingredients, but that it is a complete
fertilizer that is easy to apply and does a very good job of feeding the plant.
>Nels Peterson <npkp4jp@polarcomm.com> wrote:
>> The nutritional composition of miracle-gro isn't that outstanding
>
>I wouldn't agree with this. I think the nutritional composition of
>Miracle-Gro _is_ outstanding, in a sense. That is, Miracle-Gro is
>formulated to meet the complete nutritional needs of plants, and it seems
>to do the job quite well. I'm not trying to say Miracle-Gro is necessarily
>_better_ than other brands of complete fertilizers (you can make your own
>opinion), but it _is_ an attempt to be complete and it does work very well
>for many people (of whom I'm one, though another brand has also worked as
>well for me).
>
>"Complete fertilizer" is in distinct contrast to the other main type of
>fertilizer sold, the type that contains only the three major nutrients (N,
>P, and K), the type we usually talk of with number triplets, like 10-10-10,
>or 5-20-20, and such. Fertilizers of this type are very much cheaper than
>complete fertilizers.
>
>(Ok, for the sake of completeness we could say there's a third type, too,
>namely individual nutrient components or specialized combinations of them,
>e.g. iron sprays, zinc sprays, N-P-K with some iron or copper or calcium
>added, etc.)
>
>Complete fertilizers are required to get good plant growth in pots, where
>the artificial soil medium itself is not capable of providing much of the
>nutrients the plants groving therein need. Anything less than a complete
>fertilizer will eventually result in potted plants experiencing a shortage
>of at least one minor little nutrient, and that will slow the plant down,
>and impair production.
>
>Byron Bromley <Byron.Bromley@gsd-co.com> wrote:
>> At the time of transplanting, add 3 tbsp Epsom Salts in a gal of water,
>> feed each plant 1 pint. Add 1/3 to 1/2 cup 5-20-20, Then on a MONTHLY bases
>> add 1 cup of 5-20-20. At the end of the season compare, plant stalk and
>> the number of fruits. Also compare the amount of blosom drop I think that
>> after 1st season you will throw that stuff out.
>
>Most likely this is referring to plants growing in the soil. Soil contains
>great numbers and amounts of components, and has great potential for
>providing everything needed by plants. Usually, the 3 components most
>rapidly used by plants are the ones most rapidly depleted from soils, oddly
>enough. (Of course, every soil is different, due to base composition, and
>cropping and erosional history). Hence, addition of N(itrogen),
>P(hosphorus), or K(Potassium) more often than not is all that is required
>to get good growth and production from plants growing in soil. Extra
>Magnesium has been mentioned numerous times on chile-heads list as being
>good for chiles.
>
>So, the formula quoted above would be great for chile plants growing in the
>soil. Only if your soil is deficient in some nutrient(s) present in
>Miracle-Gro but not in commercial 5-20-20 fertilizer (i.e., besides N-P-K),
>is the great expense of Miracle-Gro likely to be well spent for soil
>application. (And if your soil did have such a deficiency, the cheapest
>way to fix the problem would be to have the soil analyzed to learn what
>specific minor nutrient(s) is needed, then just apply that single one/few).
>
>[Of course, just as soils vary in the nutrients they can provide, so crops
>also vary in the nutrients they require. Some fruit crops require more
>Nitrogen than others, even though only fruit is still the goal, not
>vegetative growth per se.]
>
>> Throw that Mirical Grow as far as you can throw it. as least as far a
>> veggies are concerned.
>
>This is surely referring to the general rule that 'excess nitrogen is the
>enemy of fruit production' (since it stimulates leaf and stem growth at the
>expense of flowers). But, there do exist low-Nitrogen, complete nutrient,
>formulations of Miracle-Gro (and its competitors) specifically for fruit
>production, e.g. one called something like "Miracle-Gro for Tomatoes" --
>this one is just as good for chiles as for their close relatives tomatoes.
>
>Use this sort of product on chiles growing in pots.
>
>[But of course there are other veggies, like spinach, lettuce, and the
>myriad of other greens where flowers/fruit/seeds are not important, for
>which regular Miracle-Gro or any other high Nitrogen regimen would be
>superior.]
>
>
>Manure / Compost
>
>Manures and composted products typically provide mostly humus, not
>nutrients (some minor nutrients are usually present, but these are nearly
>always quite low in major nutrients). Humus is important for the
>beneficial effect it has on soil structure. Most potting mixes are largely
>organic in composition, so addition of more humus, like from manure or
>compost, is pointless. So, again, major differences in fertilization
>strategy between soil and pots:
>
>Plants growing in soils generally benefit from addition of humus-adding
>components, such as manure or compost, and major nutrients (N,P,K).
>Addition of one or more minor nutrients may also be required, depending on
>circumstances, though manure/compost often supplies sufficient of any minor
>nutrients in low supply in the soil.
>
>Plants growing in pots generally benefit most from -- in fact require --
>fertilization with a complete fertilizer.
> --- Brent
>
>