Re: [CH] culantro, not cilantro
Gary Allen (g_allen@culinary.edu)
Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:46:01 -0400
>Culantro is a wild variety of Cilantro.
I wish it were as simple as that! The names "Cilantro" and "Culantro"
have been applied to a number of unrelated plants, all over the world.
The situation isn't as bad as "Mint"--which is used for thousands of
species, related or not--but is still a bit confused.
Here are some excerpts from an herb book I've been working on for the
past millennium:
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Cilantro
_Coriandrum sativum_
Other Common or Ethnic Names:
Arab Parsley, Coriander, Chinese Parsley, Cilantrillo, Culantro,
Dhana, Dhania, Indian Parsley, Mexican Parsley
Some old herbals and apothecaries had a Latin names for Coriander
that should not be confused with the scientific name used today. The
name of the herb, preceded by "fructus" meant that the recipe called
for the fruit (seeds) of the plant.
Afghanistan: Gashneez
Algeria: Qasbour
Arabic: Kazbarah, Kizbara, Kuzbara (seed)
Brazil: Coentro
Burma/Myanmar: Nannambin (leaves); Nan Nan Bin, Nan Nan Zee or
Nannamzee, Naunau (seed)
China: Fan Yan Sui, Hu Sui, Xiang Cai, Yuen Sai
Estonia: Aedkoriander
Ethiopia: Dimbilal
Finland: Korianteri
France: Appelee Aussi Persil Arabe (leaves), Coriandre,
Punaise Male
Gaelic: Coireiman, Lus a Choire
Germany: Chinesische Petersilie, Indische Petersilie,
Koriander
Greece: Koriadron
Iceland: Koriander
Indonesia: Daun Ketumbar (leaf), Ketumbar (seed)
India: Dhane, Dhania Patha, Dhania Pattar, Dhanya, Hara Dhania,
Havija, Kothambri Soppu, Kothamalli Elai, Kothamalli Kooraku,
Kotthamallie (leaf); Daniya Kothambri, Dhania, Dhaniyaka, Dhaniyalu,
Dahi, Dhoney, Dhuniah, Kambari, Kothimbir, Kothamilee, Kotimiri,
Kottamalli (seed)
Iran: Gheshneez, Gishniiz
Swahili: Giligilani
Iraq: Kazbara, Kizbarah
Italy: Coriandolo
Japan: Koyendoro
Laos: Hap Kom, Phak Hom Pom, Phak Houa Pom
Malaysia: Daun Ketumbar (leaf), Ketumbar (seed)
Mexico: Cilantro, Culantro
Morocco: Kosbour (seeds)
Netherlands: Ketoembar, Koriander
Norway: Koriander
Okinawa: Kushiba
Philippines: Ketumbar (leaf), Kulantro, Unsuy, Wansuey, Wansoy
Poland: Kolendra Siewna
Portugal: Coentro
Puerto Rico: Culantro, Culantro de Monte, Recao
Russia: Kinza, Kishnets, Koriandr
Spain: Celiandre, Coriandre, Coriandro, Culantro
Sri Lanka: Kothamalli (seed), Kothamalli Kolle (leaf)
Sweden: Koriander
Japan: Koendoro, Koyendoro
Ethiopia: Dimbilal
Thailand: Mellet Pak Chee, Mellet Pak Chi, Pak Chee or Pak Chi
Bai (leaves), Luk Pak Chee or Pak Chi Met (seed), Pak Chi Rahk
(roots), Phak Chee
Turkey: Kishnish, Kisnis
Vietnam: Cantau, Cay Ngo, Mui, Ngo, Rau Mai, Rau Mui, Rau Ngo,
Rau Ngo Tan
Cultivars:
Several cultivars of this species are available, and some varieties
are grown for seeds than foliage. If you're after long lasting
foliage, choose 'Bengal Giant,' 'Kasturi Sweet Scented,' 'Large
Leaved' and 'Santo' -- all developed for their foliage. The Cook's
Garden, in Londonderry, Vermont, carries a cultivar they call 'Slo
Bolt,' -- which may be a trade-name for one of the above -- just what
the Cilantro lover requires. Burpee's Herb seed 'Coriander' is a
similar cultivar. In hot weather, it will still bolt, but it will
provide more, and better-flavored, leaves before it surrenders to it
procreative urges. 'Indian' and 'Moroccan' are grown specifically for
their seeds -- the 'Indian' is the sweeter and more desirable of the
two.
Growth Habits:
Annual
Origin: Mediterranean Region
Range: Temperate regions
Culinary Uses:
Cilantro is loved or hated, passionately. It was love at first bite
for me -- 'though I can easily understand why the haters feel the way
they do.
The seeds, however, are used in a wide range of foods: from baked
goods, to sugar-coated candies, to poultry dressings, to sausages
(salt, garlic and coriander are the main seasonings in Bologna, Hot
Dogs and Mortadella). They are good in pickles and in beet salads,
with tomatoes, or as an interesting addition to ratatouille. Coriander
seeds are combined with Cumin seeds in many North African dishes.
The ground seeds are used, in combination with other spices and salt,
in the French seasoning called Sel Epice. It is used with meats,
especially in the cured meats and sausages that constitute French
charcuterie. They are good with rich roasted meats, such as pork, but
they also serve in sauces and broths of other meats.
They are, supposedly, among the secret ingredients in Benedictine --
also in Akavit, Anisette, Fernet Branca, Kummel, Vermouth and many
gins. The seeds also make an appearance in the recipe for Grand
Marnier (and, presumably, Cointreau). They were used in Absinthe. Oil
derived from the seed is used in Chartreuse.
The fresh leaves are used in salads, sauces and stews. Essential to
guacamole and other Southwestern or Mexican cooking. It is
indispensable to the cuisines of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, India and
parts of China.
They are widely used in Brazil, not surprising considering their
popularity in Portugal. Molho Brasiliero, "Brazilian Sauce," is a kind
of green salsa made with Cilantro, lime juice and other spices and
herbs. African slaves certainly brought Okra to the New World, giving
us our Shrimp Gumbo ("Okra" from the Ashanti, west African, word
"nkru," "gumbo" from the Bantu, south African, word "Ngombo"). The
Brazilian version of the same dish contains peanuts and Cilantro.
The finely-cut leaves just below the flowers are quite mild -- all
the plant's energy being diverted to the production of seeds. The
green seeds and flowers are a curiously hot blend of the musky
Cilantro taste with the sweet spiciness of dried Coriander seed.
In Southeast Asia, the stems and roots are treated as distinct
seasonings. They are used with beans and soups. The roots are chopped
and included in some curries.
Cilantro leaves contain trans-2-Trideceneal and Decanal. Coriander
Seed contains a-Terpinene, Camphene, Citral, Coriandrol, Cymen,
g-Terpinene, Limonene, Linalool, Myrcene, Phellandrene and Pinene.
Caveat:
Cilantro is quick to seed (a sure sign that this is about to happen:
tall, stiff stems with finely divided leaves rise above the typical
rounded parsley-like foliage.). It does not keep well, once cut. The
herb can be dried, but loses its intense flavor and aroma (many people
think of this loss as a good thing!)
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Culantro
_Eryngium foetidum_
Other Common or Ethnic Names:
Black Benny, Broad-leafed Cilantro, Cilantrillo, Cilantro, Culantro,
Eryngo, False Coriander, Fit-weed, Foreign Coriander, Long Coriander,
Mexican Coriander, Puerto Rican Coriander, Sawleaf, Saw Leaf Herb,
Sawtooth Coriander, Sawtooth Herb, Thorny Coriander
While this species is not Listed in _Hortus Third_, I have also seen
it listed as _Geringium foelidum_, which is, apparently, a
typographical error.
Caribbean: Culantro de Monte
China: Jia Yuan Qian
Columbia: Cilantro
Germany: Langer Koriander, Mexicanischer Koriander
Jamaica: Spiritweed
Laos: Hom Tay
Malaysia: Daun Ketumbar Jawa, Ketumbar Java
Mexico: Perejil de Tabasco
Spain: Culantro, Racao, Recao
Thailand: Pak Chi Farang, Phak Chee Farang
Trinidad: Shadon Beni, Shadow Benny
Vietnam: Cay Muoy Than, Cay Nuitau, Cay Ngo Tan, Ngo Gai, Ngo
Ta
Related Species:
_Eryngium carlinae_: Hierba del Sapo (Mexico); Eryngo
_Peperomia glaioides_: Cuyanguilla, Quereme (Columbia)
_Peperomia pellucida_: Hierba de Sapo (Panama)
_Peperomia quadrifolia_: Retono (Spain)
_Peperomia viridispica var. Perjil_: Perejil (Columbia); Perejil
(Panama)
Growth Habits:
Annual or biennial
Origin: New World Tropics
Range: Africa, Asia, Hawaii
Culinary Uses:
Culantro is used all over the Caribbean region in marinades for fish
and as an aromatic addition the omnipresent meat patties. It is
combined with tomatoes, Garlic and Scotch Bonnets in a Caribbean
version of Deviled Crabs. Central Americans add it to beans, much as
Epazote is used in Mexico. It is an ingredient in Sofrito, the
seasoning paste used in Puerto Rican, and other Caribbean, cooking.
Ngo Gai, _Eryngium foetidum_ is used in sour soups in Vietnam and
with fish dishes in Mexico.
It is used in Thai cooking (such as Larp -- a raw beef salad, and Tom
Yam soup). Thais use it to cut the effect of strong smelling foods,
which is why it is usually combined with the zest of Kaffir limes. The
Thai name, Phak Chee Farang, means "foreign coriander."
The strong smell is the result of a number of Aldehydes.
Caveat:
Another plant, called "Culantro de Montana," is unrelated. Its
botanical name is _Peperomia acuminata_. Both plants are used in the
Caribbean and probably share the name because they are used in similar
ways in cooking.
"Culantro" is a name used for Cilantro at times, but in the
Caribbean, it usually means _Eryngium foetidum_, a plant that is more
closely related to Sea Holly (q.v.). "Culantro de Monte," is,
apparently, not the same plant as "Culantro de Montana" (q.v.) --
although the uses are similar. I suspect that the two plants received
the same names because of their proximity and their usage. The two
plants are used in the lands that are adjacent to the Gulf of Mexico.
A number of different cultures coexist in that relatively small area,
but most of them have been touched by the Spanish colonial presence.
That may have been just enough to carry the names and uses, but not
the plants themselves, from place to place.
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Culantro de Montana
_Peperomia acuminata_
Other Common or Ethnic Names:
Radiator Plant
Related Species:
_Peperomia maculosa_: Cilantro Peperomia
_Peperomia pellucida_: Cang Cua (Vietnam);
Ketumpangan Ayer (Malaysia); Olasiman Ihalas, Sahica-puti,
Ulasiman-bato (Philippines); Pak Krasang (Thailand); Rangu-Ranga
(Indonesia); Rau Cangcua (Vietnam); Suna Kosho (Japan); Greenhouse Tea
Plant, Peperomia
Growth Habits:
Succulent perennial
Origin: Northern South America
Range: Naturalized in Hawaii
Culinary Uses:
The leaves, fresh or dried, of _Peperomia acuminata_ are used as a
seasoning in Tropical portions of the Americas. _Peperomia maculosa_
tastes like, and is used as Cilantro. _Peperomia pellucida_ is used as
an herbal tea, in salads, and as a potherb.
Cang Cua has an odd odor, smelling as if were stored with uncooked
fish.
Caveat:
"Culantro de Monte" is a name used in the Caribbean, usually
referring to _Eryngium foetidum_, a plant that is more closely related
to Sea Holly. "Cilantro," of course, usually means the foliage of
Coriander.
Some of the _Peperomia acuminata_ sold in this country is actually
_Peperomia elongata var. guianensis_.
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Daun Kesom
_Polygonum odoratum_
Other Common or Ethnic Names:
Asian Cilantro, Cambodian Mint, Fragrant Knotweed, Hot Mint, Lady's
Thumb, Laksa Leaf, Lemon Coriander, Perennial Coriander, Persicary,
Smartweed, Vietnamese Coriander, Vietnamese Mint, Water Pepper
Indonesia: Daun Kesom, Daun Laksa
Laos: Phak Pheo
Malaysia: Daun Kesom, Daun Laksa, Kasum
Singapore: Daun Kesom, Daun Laksa
Thailand: Pak Pao, Phak Phai
Vietnam: Nghe, Rau Ram
Daun Kesom is sometimes listed as _Persicaria odorata_, _Polygonum
pulchrum_, or _Polygonum hydropiper_.
Related Species:
_Polygonum multiflorum_: Fo Ti (Japan); He Show
Wu, Hu Shou Wu (China)
_Polygonum persicaria_: Haru-tade, Heartweed, Lady's Thumb,
Red Leg -- native wild plant.
_Polygonum sachalinense_: Japanese Knotweed, Giant Knotweed.
Native wild plant.
_Polygonum tartaricum_: Buckwheat, Tartary Buckwheat
_Rheum officinale_: Ruibarbo (Columbia); Ruibarbo (Mexico);
Rhubarb Root
_Rheum Rhabarbarum_: Garden Rhubarb, Pie Plant, Rhubarb, Wine
Plant
Growth Habits:
Perennial (in frost-free regions)
Origin: Vietnam
Range: Grown as an annual in cold climates
Culinary Uses:
These Eucalyptus-, or lemon-cilantro-, like scented leaves are used
in Southeast Asian curries. One source describes its flavor as
"intense, akin to a concentrated mixture of basil and mint." They have
a somewhat astringent quality as well.
Some species are more acidic and peppery than others. Usually, only
the young leaves are used in Vietnamese dishes. It is often used with
poultry, duck eggs and the pickled cabbage dish Du'a Can.
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There's at least one other appearance of the common name "Culantro:"
"Culantro Cimarron" is the Venezuelan term for _Lippia oreganoides_, a
close relative of Mexican Oregano.
Bet you're sorry this subject ever came up!
Gary (the lurker, not the Gary you usually see on this list) Allen