[CH] Hiking and playing music in Ireland, Scotland and England this

Karen Elizabeth Stober (kstober@skyweb.net)
Thu, 17 Feb 2005 16:24:08 -0500

I am planning a hiking trip to Ireland, Scotland and England this July and 
August.  I'm only an artist and a musician and I live on a shoestring 
budget.  I would like to sit in with bands/orchestras along the way.  Paid 
would be nice but unpaid is OK.  I'm not a soloist or a cornet 1 
player.  I'll play any style though I'm best at classical music.  I like 
meeting people from around the world. If anybody has a cafe/pub and needs a 
hand I would love to help for a day or night for a couple 
dollars/pounds/euros.  I will not have a car and will rely entirely on 
public transportation.  I am also big on chile peppers and any spicy foods, 
so what are good spicy places to eat at?  I would love to meet with as many 
of you as I can.

Anybody familiar with the areas I am talking about please email me at 
"kstober@skyweb.net".

Can anyone recommend places I can ride a horse on a trail, English hunt 
seat.  I don't mean the expensive pony trekking where one goes from inn to 
inn.  I am very interested in Celtic sites and standing stones.

What I want to know are any helpful hints about local customs, like I know 
The Isle Of Lewis totally shuts down on Sundays so don't go there or be 
there on a Sunday.  I can only afford hostels and campgrounds.  I am using 
the Lonely Planet Guides.  The YHA hostels, 
"http://www.yha.org.uk/Home/Home_Page/index.html", don't have an age 
limit.  How many hostels and campgrounds take credit cards or should I 
exchange lots of money?  I think YHA does.

I really want to see the Giants Causeway, 
"http://www.irelandunveiled.com/home.cgi".  So I may fly New York City to 
Belfast.  Stay one night in Belfast then go North.  What is the best way to 
get to The Giants Causeway?  I wont have a car.  I came across mention of a 
hostel nearby, Sheep Island View Hostel, "http://www.sheepislandview.com", 
that has a free shuttle service to the Causeway.

However, I really want to take the ferry from Ireland to Scotland.  They 
only leave from North Ireland.  It may be better for me to fly into Dublin 
and end my tour of Ireland in Belfast.  It is also cheaper to do so from 
New Jersey, as the limo is half the cost and I think I can get a flight out 
of Newark.  The Lonely Planet Guide shows that there are flights from 
several cities in Ireland, to Glasgow and Edinburgh, to the Isle Of Lewis, 
where I plan to see the Callinish Standing Stones.  This could be a 
terrific timesaver, even though it will cost more.  My only concern is that 
these may be small puddlejumper planes and my large backpack will be too 
big and heavy for them.

Has anyone stayed at Trinity College, "http://www.tcd.ie/"?  The guide says 
it is doable but expensive, 55 Euros.  How much is that in US $s?  It 
sounds like a wonderful unique experience though.  I would stay three days, 
four nights in Dublin. The Guide recommends the Mary Gibbons tour of Bru na 
Boinne, which take in the whole of the Byne Valley, including the passage 
tombs, NewGrange and The Hill Of Tara.  Can I make reservations over the 
Internet?  I must see the Book Of Kells.  Then I would go off to Connemara 
or Galway.

I have a drawing on my website, "Epona The Celtic Goddess Of The Horse", 
"http://www.skyweb.net/~kstober/epona.htm".  In doing the research for this 
illustration, I found that the Connemara Pony is the closest living 
relative of the ancient Celtic horse.  Near Clifden in County Connemara is 
the Errislannan Equestrian Centre.  They have Connemara ponies for hire and 
lessons.  Of course I must try to get there and ride one.  How I get there 
is the challenge.

While in Ireland, I would like to buy a real Irish wool cloak.  Renaissance 
style so I can wear it for my Renfaire fanfare trumpet role.  Are there any 
thrift/charity shops where I can get a used cloak inexpensively?  How do I 
find them in the city?  I doubt there are phone books at Trinity College, 
but they may have some information for visitors.  I would like to see the 
National Museum in Dublin.  I would like to see Londonderry then swing down 
(or up, depending on where I start) to Limerick and The River Shannon.  I 
would like to hike the Burren.  There are buses that run from Limerick to 
The Burren and back.  I read that The Burren, The Giants Causeway and the 
Cliffs Of Moher are crowded with tourists in the Summer.  A hostel in the 
Burren area, Carraigliath in Kilfenora, is run by a family where they all 
play traditional Irish music.  Think I can get a lesson on how to play my 
bodhran?  I wont have that with me though, just the trumpet.  Is there any 
Irish trumpet sheet music and CDs?

I would also like to go to the Prehistoric Music Ireland 
"http://homepage.eircom.net/~bronzeagehorns/", in Crimlin, Corr na Mona, 
County Galway.  Even though I do play didjeridoo, I doubt they would let me 
touch one of these.  They are played like a didjeridoo.

I doubt I will get to Skellig Michael, Ring Of Kerry, because only about 
200 tourists are allowed to visit a day.  I can't make reservations in 
advance because I don't know what day I will make it there.

I figure Ireland will take two weeks.  I plan to take a ferry from Ireland 
to Scotland. There are several companies.  I would be "foot passenger 
only".  In Scotland,  "http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/scotland.htm", I 
want to go to the Isle Of Lewis, "http://www.isle-of-lewis.com/", and see 
the Callanish Standing Stone Circle, 
"http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/stones.htm", and 
"http://www.stonesofwonder.com/wesindex.htm".  Then I plan to go on to 
Stirling and Loch Lomond, which is near Glasgow. I want to see William 
"Braveheart" Wallace's Sword, 
"http://www.instirling.com/sight/wallace.htm".  I will need to get someone 
to snap a photo of me next to Bravehearts sword, 
"http://www.scottravel.org/tours/pics/Jim%20n%20Wallace's%20sword.jpg".  Is 
there a place I can leave my pack, trumpet and camera bag safely?

I read that Stirling is about a three hour bus ride from Edinburgh.  Are 
there any stables where I can go on a trail ride around the Loch, 
"http://www.lochlomond-trossachs.org" ?  I sent away for a freee booklet 
from the local tourist agency requesting horseback riding places.  I hope 
it doesn't get lost in the mail.  I think I need to read up on "Rob Roy" 
before I leave, too.  Can anybody recommend a web site, book I can get 
accurate information from?  The guides note that Loch Lomond is the second 
most popular Loch in Scotland (Loch Ness is the first) and is loaded with 
jet skis and motor boats.

What are the best ways to get to where I want to go in Scotland?  And from 
Stirling to Hadrian's Wall in England?  And how long will it take?  The 
ferries from Ireland will drop me off in the lower part of Scotland.  The 
Isle Of Lewis is in the far northwest and Stirling is in the far southeast.

Then I want to make my way south to Hadrians Wall, 
"http://www.hadrians-wall.org/".  Where is the best section to hike to see 
Roman Ruins?  After that I want to go to Cresswell Crags, 
"http://www.creswell-crags.org.uk/", the largest collection of stone age 
cave man art in the world.  Nearby will be my longest hike, at 105 miles, 
The Robin Hood Way Trail, "http://www.robinhoodway.co.uk" and 
"http://www.ramblers.org.uk/info/paths/robinhood.html".  I read in the 
guide that nearby is the grave of Little John of Robin Hood fame, 
"http://www.outdooryorkshire.com/exec/137469/8516/PROFILE=", and 
"http://www.walkingbritain.co.uk/walks/walksv0/vw048.shtml".  I think it 
may be a little too far for me, and, the grave is empty anyhow.  Has 
anybody done this and the 95 mile trail, The West Highland Way, 
"http://www.west-highland-way.co.uk/",  that runs vertically through 
Scotland?  Which do you feel is time better spent?

  The trail begins in Nottinghamshire.  Nottingham Castle was destroyed 
during a civil war and the building there now is said to have a nice Robin 
Hood museum.  It ends at Edwinstowe Church.  Meandering through Sherwood 
Forest, one comes face to face with Major Oak.  I could even pick up the 
trail at Creswell Crags and hike through Sherwood Forest to the end.  And 
just visit Nottinghamshire if I so desire.  What is a definitive book on 
Robin Hood?  Yes I have seen the Kevin Costner movie but I am sure that 
isn't historically accurate.

It appears this is near Birmingham, where I will need to be for the Tolkien 
conference, as per my previous "Gig Alert" email.  I'll be in Birmingham 
for sure August 10 through August 16.  If I wind up with like a week or 
maybe even three days to spare before the conference I will try to get to 
Sutton Hoo or Tintagel Castle.  What is the best way to get from 
Nottinghamshire or the end of the Robin Hood Way trail, or Birmingham to 
Sutton Hoo?  Or to Tintagel?

I would like to see the Viking Ship burial at Sutton Hoo, 
"http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/places/suttonhoo/index.html", but that is 
in the far southeastern side of England.  Tintegal Castle is in Cornwall, 
the far southwestern part of England.   The legendary birthplace of King 
Arthur.  Another tourist trap I read.  I would also love to see one of the 
chalk horses on the hillside.

I really hope that I can splurge one or two nights and stay at the B & B on 
the grounds of Sutton Hoo.  Being that it is Summer, I doubt there will be 
rooms available.  Has anybody stayed there?

I would like to stay in London a couple of days.  I would like to catch the 
LSO and spend a day at The British Museum.  Is Handel buried at the 
Westminster Cathedral, along with the kings he wrote music for?

Where are good stores to get local trumpet sheet music from?  And CDs of 
local trumpet music?

And, picking up the latest "Harry Potter" at the airport (UK has alternate 
covers from the US editions), fly home from London.

Cheers

Karen